So we live in Tampa, FL. And my kitchen and dining room floor is a six-year-old cheap laminate that needed replacing
from seams buckling and dents. I began of course by removing all the furniture in the room. Then I gave it a nice sweep and cleaning in order to remove the rooms trim I used a knife to cut the caulk around my baseboards. Then I used a putty knife and a hammer to get in between the wall and the trim. Once I had a little space to work with
I used a crowbar to fully remove the trim from the wall. I also removed obstacles like heat registers and then used the same putty knife and crowbar method to remove other trim around the floor as well as the transition pieces between the carpet in our living room and the flooring in the kitchen and dining the laminate floor that was installed was a floating floor, so I got started on where the heat register was because it was already an open space. I could begin to pull up to click together flooring. I also removed the foam underlayment that comes with many laminate floors. Don’t forget when you’re doing this process to move your appliances out of the way as the flooring obstacles underneath them.
Under the floating laminate floor was also vinyl tiles from the 70s I decided to remove these as well,
Start each row of flooring with a vinyl plank a different link than the one before you’ll see here I made a tapping block from a small piece of the flooring to tap I flip it upside down so that it doesn’t interfere with the click joinery of this type of floor make sure all your seams are very tight before each new row. I vacuum the area clean here’s a great tip to make about half the amount of cuts after each row use the remnant of the piece you cut to start to the next row you will use more of your flooring and have less waste, that way so when you’re measuring the plank to fit the end of a row simply flip the piece of flooring the opposite way make your mark and then make your cut with the square and the utility knife. This way when you’re done cutting you can just flip it and it’ll be the right measurements to click into place no tape measure for quite when using your straightedge to make cuts on the flooring just put the metal square into the groove of the joinery system on these planks it prevents the square from moving around and you’ll get a very straight cut lay on the plank by attaching the short side first.
Pick it up and come into the groove at a downward angle click together the long side of the blank by lifting up the previous part of the row so you can get it at a downward angle as well sliding it tightly together and then laying it flat. So, I just did this process again, and again throughout the entire floor in my dining and kitchen area. It was quite a tedious project, but I’m happy to say I was able to do it myself by the end I was getting accustomed to using my tiny tapping block after every single row to make sure the seams were extra tight before reinstalling the trim. I gave it a fresh coat of white paint as well as a new coat of stain on the quarter round around the base of our cabinetry. I also painted the underside of the trim on the wall the wall color so when reinstalling it my job will look professional. I used a hammer to pound the nails from the trim back into the wall.
Then I touched up the nail pillows with papers I reinstalled at the floor around with my brad nailer to install the transition pieces between the living room and the kitchen. I inserted as these large plastic screws into the piece and then used a drill with a quarter inch bit to drill holes for these screws to be pounded into this process reminded me a lot of installing drywall anchors. After vacuuming up my mess I installed it with a rubber mallet tapping gently from one end all the way down to the other that was the last step in the finishing touches.